White Rock Canyon

Highlights: A sandstone canyon sporting two tall rock pillars inscribed with glyphs from the cowboy era, a laughing stream and a lush growth of pines.

Location: Near Arlington on the north edge of the Medicine Bow Mountains.

Total Distance: One to two miles down and back.

Elevations: Rim, 8280’; Floor 8060’

Maps: USGS White Rock Canyon quad; Medicine Bow National Forest Map

Trailhead: Take I-80 west from Cheyenne about 90 miles, exiting at Arlington, exit 272. Turn under the interstate then go west along the south service road. At the third forest service road, FS 111, 1½ miles from Arlington, turn south. Continue on gravel FS 111 about three miles. Just after entering the forest take the right fork into a parking area. The canyon sign has been removed by vandals.

The hike: This is a little adventure more than a hike as there are no trails to follow. It’s better this way! From the rim you’ll spot two sandstone pillars across the creek. Your mission? Scramble off the canyon edge and cross the vale to find the spires. It looks easy until you discover how well hidden they are among the tall pines. After inspecting the inscriptions you’ll want to follow the creek downstream (East Fork of Wagonhound Creek) to the narrow canyon gates where there are more glyphs from turn of the century cowboys and travelers. The walls here are nearly 200 feet tall. While there try to figure out how this white sandstone came to exist in sight of the massive granite bulk of Elk Mountain. Return the way you came.

Pointers: Please don’t even think about defacing these old etchings or of adding your own. Even oil from your hands is damaging. This is one of few records left by these early arrivals, the ancestors of some familiar names in Laramie and Cheyenne today. We have many other ways of “making our mark” in the 21st century.

Rock Creek – Deep Creek Trail, WY

Highlights: A lovely, long trail following the creeks of a deep, shady canyon.  It’s a popular place to stretch out because it’s so easy to get to, so well constructed and the surroundings are so peaceful and expansive.  The trail was given National Recreation Trails certification back in 1979 and along with the recognition received funding for lots of neat little bridges.  The recent Forest Service plan recommends the area be designated Wilderness.   An optional spur leads to Crater Lake, a spring-fed gem embraced by towering granite walls.

Location: The northern reach of the Medicine Bow Mountains, near the town of Arlington, 40 miles west of Laramie.

Elevations: Arlington trailhead, 7,920’; Deep Creek campground trailhead, 10,066’.

Distance: 12 to 13 miles from end to end, one way.

Maps: Medicine Bow National Forest; USGS Arlington, White Rock Canyon, Morgan and Sand Lake quads; Forest Service pamphlet “The Snowy Range Hiker.”

Guide: Marc Smith’s Hiking Wyoming’s Medicine Bow National Forest – Third Edition, Bill Hunger’s The Hiker’s Guide to Wyoming.

Trailhead: To reach Arlington from Cheyenne, WY, take I-80 90 miles west to the Arlington exit (#272).    Go south on FS-127 1-1/2 miles to the trailhead and parking.  The Deep Creek campground is on FS-101, which can be reached from WY-130 about four miles west of Centennial or from the Arlington exit by going 1-1/2 miles west on the south service road to FS-111, taking it 13 miles to FS-101, where you turn left and go 1-1/2  miles to the campground.

The Hike: The description will begin at the bottom, at the northern trailhead near Arlington.  Rock Creek spreads out broadly here, a sheen of shallow, silver water.  The canyon stretches for miles ahead, a deep, broad “V” cut 1,000 feet into the rock.  The hillsides are open sage, pierced by rock outcrops; the trail floor soon leads into the shade of a mature aspen grove.   A moldering cabin and tailings pile mark the site a of miner’s failed dream. But yours has just begun.

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Huston Park Continental Divide Trail

Highlights: This hike is a resplendent walk along the Continental Divide Trail where it weaves together a succession of verdant meadows, each a vast, rich, colorful carpet of wildflowers rimmed with pines, rising and falling along the gentle crest of the southern Sierra Madre Mountain range.

Location: West of Encampment, Wyoming in the Huston Park Wilderness area of the Medicine Bow National Forest.

Elevations: Red Mountain Trailhead, 10,067′; high point, 10,500′, Pipeline Trailhead, 9, 190′/

Distance: Entire trail through Huston Park Wilderness is 13.5 miles one way. The hike is out and back as far as you wish to go.

Maps: Forest Service brochures “Medicine Bow National Forest Continental Divide National Scenic Trail” and “Huston Park Encampment River Wilderness Trail Map”, Medicine Bow National Forest Map, USGS quads Red Mountain, Solomon Creek

Guide:Marc Smith’s Hiking Wyoming’s Medicine Bow National Forest – Third Edition

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Sheep Mountain Trail, Centennial, WY

Highlights: This is the mountain that everyone sees but few explore, the eastern most spur of the Medicine Bow Range. While from the road the mountain simply looks like a narrow ridge the top is a pleasant surprise, a long basin with flowing streams, wetlands and floating mat bogs. The 19,238 acres of Sheep Mountain were designated a National Wildlife Refuge on August 8, 1924 to preserve our elk population. It is roadless and the trail is the longest hiking trail in the Wyoming side of the Medicine Bow range. Mountain bikes are allowed.

Location: West of Laramie, east of Centennial.

Elevations: Sheep Mountain trailhead (south) 7840’, high point 9480’, north access route 7700’.

Distance: Roughly 15 miles from end to end.

Maps: USGS Rex Lake (north), Lake Owen (south); Medicine Bow National Forest Map, Medicine Bow “Sheep Mountain” pamphlet.

Guide: Marc Smith’s Hiking Wyoming’s Medicine Bow National Forest – Third Edition
, Erik Molvar’s Wild Wyoming
.

Trailhead: From Cheyenne take I-80 to Laramie, Exit 311, go southwest on WY 230 for 23 miles, turn north on Fox Creek Road (Forest Service 311). There are three southern trailheads. Fence Creek is first, at 1.4 miles, Sheep Mountain Trailhead (with the largest parking area) at 2.3 miles and the Forbes Game and Fish Trailhead (best for horses) at 5.5 miles. The Forbes trail is closed until July 1^st to protect elk calving. The North access, which only the crazy or the seriously athletic would want to ascend, is marked by a sign on the fence on WY 11, 1.9 miles south of WY 130.

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Albany Trail, WY

Hike of the Week: Mysterious Albany Trail

Highlights: This is a secret trail, not shown on any maps and without trailhead markings, yet someone has blazed most of it with white triangles. It leads to crystalline beaver ponds, up weathered granite hills to sweeping views of the Laramie Plains, and marches on to overlooks down into Hells Canyon, the most precipitous run in the Snowy Range.

Location: West of Albany along the eastern edge of the Medicine Bow National Forest.

Elevations Southern Trailhead, 8,790’; Northern Trailhead, 9,310’.

Distance: Approximately five miles from end to end

Maps: For trail head directions, use the Medicine Bow National Forest map. USGS quad, Albany.
Albany Trail Map (.PDF)

Trailhead: I-80 to Laramie, take exit #311, following Snowy Range Rd (WY 130) west 24 miles, turning south on WY 11 to Albany. Through town continue on FS 500.

To reach the southern trailhead go 2 miles from the large Medicine Bow National Forest sign above Albany.Turn right on FS 305, then make an immediate right on an unmarked four wheel drive road. If you are taking a passenger car, this is the place to park. If you’re in a friend’s four wheel drive continue straight on this rough, rocky road (it is FS 500B 01) exactly 1.0 miles, keeping to the right at any intersection. Park at the right hand pull-out. The trail begins on your left. You’ll know you are there if the wide trail is over run by a creek.

To reach the northern trailhead continue on FS 500 to Rob Roy Reservoir where you’ll turn right on FS 338. Then turn right on FS 305 at Cinnabar Park. In 7/10ths of a mile turn left on 305C. The only sign identifying this road is 100 yards or so down the road, a snowmobile trail sign orange over silver marked 305C. Go down this narrow, rough, and yes, rocky four wheel drive road 2.1 miles when you’ll come to a natural park on the right. To your left is a large fire ring and room to park.

The Hike: A recent decision by the Forest Service is turning this trail from hikers only to a dirt bikes track. Construction has to be completed before this change can take place, improving bridges over the riparian areas, work which may be done next summer. This is your last chance to enjoy this unique trail in peace and quiet.

Because much of the trail is not marked it should only be attempted by those looking for a little extra route finding adventure.

From the south trailhead, make your way through or over the creek, which is the South Fork Little Laramie River. At the first intersection, take the right fork, keeping the creek on your left. (Do not take 500B 03!.) At an unmarked Y, take the left fork. Now you are safely on the trail. In a while you will begin to notice white triangles painted on trees to mark your way.

After walking through the trees you may notice some creeks from the left. This area is called “Many Ponds”. Beavers have turned these unnamed rivlets into strings of pearls. Proposed for “Research Natural Area” status in the draft Forest Service Plan, the ponds nourish a wide variety of plants and make boreal toads downright happy.

At two low pine-pole bridges there are fine spots to stop to enjoy the perfect mirrored reflections of sky, rock and trees.

The trail leads on to a second attraction, hills of amber colored, pea-sized granite gravels. Scrambling to the top of one provides searching views of Centennial and the Laramie Plains.

Beyond two more small creeks the trail turns to the west drawing you to the third attraction, overlooks of Hells Canyon, the steepest, longest plunge in the Snowies. You’ll need to step off the trail a few yards to take in the view of the forested canyon and the Snowy Range gleaming white in the distance.

Beyond “Hell” the trail joins a logging road. Turning to the left takes you to the northern trailhead.

If you are hiking from the north trailhead, walk on down the logging road. Turn right on a trail marked for snowmobiles, orange over silver. At a small logged area the snowmobile trail and the Albany Trail separate. Keep to the left edge of the clear cut.

Pointers: Since this is a relatively low elevation trail it is lovely in the spring when the upper range is still snowed under. It is also pleasant in the fall after the first snows have come to higher ground. Some big aspens may bring gold fever.

The Gap: North Gap Lake Trail, Sugarloaf Recreation Area, WY

Highlights: It’s the season for a foray into the Snowy Range, the high country of the Medicine Bow. This trail takes day hikers through the gap between Medicine Bow Peak and Browns Peak, past several crystalline lakes into the expansive tundra behind the range. The fish are jumping and the flowers are high.

Location: The high point of the Medicine Bow range, west of Centennial, WY.

Elevations: Trailhead 10,800′, high point 11,120′, Deep Lake10,500′.

Distance: 3 miles each way.

Maps: Medicine Bow National Forest (note the inset); USGS Medicine Bow Peak, Sand Lake quads; Forest Service pamphlet “Snowy Range Trails.”

Guide: Marc Smith’s Hiking Wyoming’s Medicine Bow National Forest – Third Edition
Getting there: From Cheyenne, take I-80 west through Laramie to exit 311. Follow Hwy. 130 west continuing 11 miles past Centennial. Turn north into the Sugarloaf Recreation Area and continue for a mile to the Lewis Lake trailhead. Be prepared for a parking fee and a crowd.

The Hike: The North Gap Lake Trail (#108) begins above the Lewis Lake shoreline with a good perspective of the peaks and Sugarloaf Mountain. Within a quarter of a mile the Lost Lake Trail branches to the east. Stay to the left and begin your gradual ascent to South Gap Lake, nestled against the white quartzize of the range. As you reach the gap the view broadens to the vast lake district left by the glaciers of long ago.
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Savage Run, Medicine Bow National Forest, WY

Highlights: A walk across the length of the 1st Wilderness Area in the Medicine Bows, established in 1978. The trail passes through three distinct areas. The first is through one of the few remaining old growth lodgepole forests in the area with huge trees and a park-like savannah in between. The second crosses some large wet meadows, filled with sunshine and life. The third and final is a long ramble along the tumbling Savage Run as it makes it’s way through the deeply forested, v-shaped valley.

Location: On the western slope of the Medicine Bow Mountains.

Elevations: Trailhead 9,400′, Forest Boundary 7,725′

Distance: 9 miles from end to end, one way

Maps: Medicine Bow National Forest, USGS Overlook Hill & Keystone quads

Guide: Marc Smith’s Hiking Wyoming’s Medicine Bow National Forest – Third Edition, Erik Molvar’s Wild Wyoming, Forest Service pamphlet “Savage Run Wilderness”

Trailhead: From Laramie take WY 130 west to WY 11 south to Albany. Here WY 11 becomes FS 500. Continue west about 14 miles on this long gravel road past Rob Roy Reservoir to FS 500.3A. Turn to the south and continue 1 ½ miles along this rocky track to the trailhead and parking. A high clearance rig is advisable for this last bit. Cars can park just off the road.

The Hike: The trail begins in the desolation of a clear cut but then steps into a magical forest primeval. This is the way the Medicine Bows must have looked when the first trappers entered the Native Americans’ world, before the loggers claimed it as their own. Majestic lodgepole pines are widely spaced, the floor open, the brush cleared by fires that barely licked the trees. Take some time to wander in these woods.
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Encampment River Trail, Medicine Bow National Forest, WY

Highlights: This trail – a glorious walk along the Encampment River – is a gem, a sapphire. The river is a turbulent, wrestling rush of water, splashing its course down the narrow canyon. The upper reach is in the deep shade of fir and spruce, the lower runs through an open hillside of sun and sage, alders, wild flowers and wildlife. This is the finest canyon trail of the Medicine Bow National Forest. The lower four miles are in a BLM wilderness study area, the upper twelve run the length of the Encampment River Wilderness, established by congress in 1984. At 10,124 acres, it’s the smallest wilderness in the state. This one is for hikers, no bikes allowed, and it’s not an ideal trail for horses because of the narrow tread and the overhanging boughs.

Location: The eastern side of the Sierra Madre range, just south of the town of Encampment, Wyoming.

Elevations: Odd Fellows Trailhead, 7,800′; Commissary Park Trailhead, 8,900′

Distance: About 16 miles from end to end. A trailhead at Purgatory Gulch allows a hiker to split the trail in two sections.

Maps: USGS Dudley Creek, Encampment; Medicine Bow National Forest Map; Medicine Bow National Forest “Huston Park Encampment River Wilderness Trail Map” (pamphlet)

Guide: Marc Smith’s Hiking Wyoming’s Medicine Bow National Forest, Bill Hunger’s Hiker’s Guide to Wyoming, Erik Molvar’s Wild Wyoming.

Trailhead: It is a 140 mile drive from Cheyenne, WY, taking I-80 west to Laramie, exit 311, then southwest on WY 230 into Colorado (where it is CO 127), north on CO 125 back into Wyoming (where it continues as 230 again) to Riverside. At Riverside turn west on WY 70 through Encampment. Less than ¼ mile past Encampment a BLM sign (Encampment River Trail) points to the south. Take this well graded, gravel road two miles to the Oddfellows trailhead and campground.
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Rainbow End, Medicine Bow National Forest, Laramie Range, WY

North Laramie River Trail

Highlights: A rather boring hike to a destination that truly has it all: scenery, wildlife, good stream fishing, a swimming hole and the interesting remains of the old Rainbow End, a lodge and string of cabins that was a popular resort for those seeking cool canyon solace and leaping rainbows from the 1920’s through the 1950’s. And you can come and stay for the price of a walk, 2 ½ miles each way. But bring a tent and your own cooking gear.

Location: About 20 miles west of Wheatland in the Laramie Range along the North Laramie River.

Elevations: Trailhead 6,980; Rainbow End 5,850′

Distance: 2 ½ miles each way

Maps: Medicine Bow National Forest, Laramie Peak Unit; USGS Fletcher Park Quad

Guide: Marc Smith’s Hiking Wyoming’s Medicine Bow National Forest, Douglas Ranger District pamphlet “North Laramie River Trail #625″

Trailhead: Take I-25 north from Cheyenne, past Wheatland to exit 94, El Rancho Road. Go west on CR 114, Fish Creek Rd. After 13.7 miles turn right on CR 113, Fletcher Park Rd. (AKA FS 716) and continue 5.5 miles. Just past Camp Grace, turn south on FS 642, Cow Camp Road. Look for a little spur on the left, FS 643, where you’ll find parking. The trailhead is marked as the “North Laramie River Trail”. The route is passenger car passable.

The Hike: The first mile is mostly level through the burned remains of ponderosa pine, the result of a lightening strike in 1996. New growth returns slowly in this dry land but the flowers can be beautiful and the deer are plentiful. The second mile is a steady descent that gets ever steeper as you go, leaving the blackened trees to switchback down an open hillside. The old inn, the lovely North Laramie River and the hay fields long left to flower await you. This flat bottom valley is held in a cradle of jagged rock walls and steep hillsides, sheltered like a little Shangri-la. More cabins, barns and workshops are found upstream. You’ll have to wade the river as it meanders back and forth to get to some of them.
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